Tuesday, June 26, 2012

M. de Garsault's 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: An Annotated Translation (Costume Society of America Series) Review

M. de Garsault's 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: An Annotated Translation (Costume Society of America Series)
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In an era predating the industrial revolution and the mass production of footwear, shoes were hand crafted one at a time. in 18th century Paris and London there were thousands and thousands of shoemakers who labored at the craft with creating shoes by hand, sometimes transforming ordinary footwear into works of wearable art with their basic tools and materials. With the coming of mass production technologies, the personal art of shoemaking was in danger of being lost because the costs of handcrafted footwear was seriously disadvantaged with the far cheaper footwear mass produced in factory settings. That's why "M. de Garsault's 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: An Annotated Translation" (part of the Texas Tech University Press 'Costume Society of America Series' series is such an invaluable resource and reference. Ably translated and with informative annotations by D. A. Saguto (a master boot- and shoemaker for the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation since 1990 and a leader authority on 18th century footware), "Art Of The Shoemaker" is a 304-page compendium of information on all the techniques and tools involved in hand-making shoes. Enhanced with a facsimile of the original French text, impressive illustrations, a glossary of 18th century terms, translations of other thematically relevant 18th-century commentaries on shoemaking, and an extensive bibliography for further studies, "Art Of The Shoemaker" is strongly recommended for both academic and community library Fashion History reference collections, and the supplemental reading lists for students of 18th century period costuming.

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Tens of thousands of shoemakers worked in eighteenth-century Paris and London, but if any wrote about their trade before M. de Garsault in his 1767 Art du cordonnier, nothing survives. Surprisingly little scholarship has been published since, until this richly contextualized translation. Informing this edition are D. A. Saguto's extensive notes and incisive examinations of eighteenth-century German and Italian sources as well as later French editions of Garsault's work. The result is an elegant illumination of artisanship and practices that otherwise might have been lost.Art of the Shoemaker returns us to a world where shoes, like most other goods, were made by hand with time-honored techniques from preparing threads and shoemakers' wax to the stitch-by-stitch use of the awl and the proper making of an inseam. Complementing Garsault's original copperplate images are contemporaneous illustrations and hitherto unpublished photographs of eighteenth-century tools and artifacts. Also included are a facsimile of the original French text, translations of other eighteenth-century writings on shoemaking, a glossary of eighteenth-century terms, and suggested further reading.As master boot- and shoemaker Ernest W. Peterkin comments in his foreword, Art of the Shoemaker offers solid foundation and new appreciation for students of costume, artists, collectors, archaeologists, and future artisans.

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